When I asked Ina Garten about her recipe development process for this interview, she said she has to have a very clear idea of what she wants the final dish to taste and look like. Playing around and experimenting in the kitchen is fun—until you get distracted, off course, and overwhelmed.
Ina is right, of course, but I also like to imagine when you’ll be eating the dish and what kind of mood you’ll be in. For today’s recipe, I was picturing golden chicken in a braising liquid that was rich, sweet, tangy, and bobbing with big chunks of ingredients to discover as you went along. I wanted it to be uncomplicated to eat, almost soft, but not eat-on-the-couch soft. You’d be at a table, with a knife and fork, and maybe a salad alongside. Civilized but not fussy.
But even with a clear endpoint, a dish can take many different forms. Like see here, these three recipes all fulfill this one goal. No one is better than the other, just a matter of what you feel like cooking and eating, what’s kicking around your pantry, and how much time you have. They’re all good to have around. And yeah, don’t believe the headlines: No one recipe could possibly be the best recipe.
All the Stops
Number of ingredients: 13
Time: 1 1/4 hours, plus overnight marinade
Chicken Marbella is a dish for company, or at least it was in the ‘80s. Here’s Ina’s version. With its oooh combination of prunes and olives and long marinade and cook times, it’s a dish you want to show off.
Middle-Ground
Number of ingredients: 9
Time: 45 minutes
In today’s recipe for paid subscribers, the essence of Marbella remains but in a simpler manner: Boneless thighs braise atop a mixture of dates, shallots, chicken broth, vinegar, and whatever herbs you have. The shallots are sweet, slouchy, and scorched; searing them elaborates their flavor so they’re not just straight sweet, more savory and interesting.
While olives and capers would be wonderful, vinegar can do their job. You don’t need wine for the same reason, or brown sugar since dates bring plenty of sweetness. Scroll down for the recipe. (P.S. There’s also a sweet potato mash that Cybelle, the recipe’s tester, called a revelation.)
Cut to the Chase
Number of ingredients: 6
Time: 1 1/4 hours
Maybe chicken, vinegar, and shallots are all you really need. See here.