When I asked Ina Garten about her recipe development process for this interview, she said she has to have a very clear idea of what she wants the final dish to taste and look like. Playing around and experimenting in the kitchen is fun—until you get distracted, off course, and overwhelmed.
Ina is right, of course, but I also like to imagine when you’ll be eating the dish and what kind of mood you’ll be in. For today’s recipe, I was picturing golden chicken in a braising liquid that was rich, sweet, tangy, and bobbing with big chunks of ingredients to discover as you went along. I wanted it to be uncomplicated to eat, almost soft, but not eat-on-the-couch soft. You’d be at a table, with a knife and fork, and maybe a salad alongside. Civilized but not fussy.
But even with a clear endpoint, a dish can take many different forms. Like see here, these three recipes all fulfill this one goal. No one is better than the other, just a matter of what you feel like cooking and eating, what’s kicking around your pantry, and how much time you have. They’re all good to have around. And yeah, don’t believe the headlines: No one recipe could possibly be the best recipe.
All the Stops
Number of ingredients: 13
Time: 1 1/4 hours, plus overnight marinade
Chicken Marbella is a dish for company, or at least it was in the ‘80s. Here’s Ina’s version. With its oooh combination of prunes and olives and long marinade and cook times, it’s a dish you want to show off.
Middle-Ground
Number of ingredients: 9
Time: 45 minutes
In today’s recipe for paid subscribers, the essence of Marbella remains but in a simpler manner: Boneless thighs braise atop a mixture of dates, shallots, chicken broth, vinegar, and whatever herbs you have. The shallots are sweet, slouchy, and scorched; searing them elaborates their flavor so they’re not just straight sweet, more savory and interesting.
While olives and capers would be wonderful, vinegar can do their job. You don’t need wine for the same reason, or brown sugar since dates bring plenty of sweetness. Scroll down for the recipe. (P.S. There’s also a sweet potato mash that Cybelle, the recipe’s tester, called a revelation.)
Cut to the Chase
Number of ingredients: 6
Time: 1 1/4 hours
Maybe chicken, vinegar, and shallots are all you really need. See here.
Chicken with Caramelized Shallots & Dates
Serves 4
For the chicken:
6 shallots
4 Medjool dates
6 boneless, skinless chicken thighs (1 ½ to 2 pounds)
Kosher salt and pepper
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup chicken broth
2 tablespoons Sherry vinegar
2 sprigs thyme, rosemary, or oregano (optional)
For the mashed sweet potatoes:
2 pounds sweet potatoes (4 medium)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Salt
1 ½ cups chicken stock or water, plus more as needed
1. For the chicken, heat the oven to 400°F. Peel 6 shallots and halve lengthwise (through the root). Pit and halve 4 Medjool dates. Pat 6 boneless, skinless chicken thighs (1 ½ to 2 pounds) dry. Season all over with a few grinds of pepper and 1 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt. Coat the tops with 1 tablespoon olive oil.
2. Heat a large skillet over medium-high. When a drop of water evaporates immediately on the skillet, add the chicken top side down and cook, pressing down occasionally with tongs, until browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a plate, browned side up.
3. Reduce heat to medium, then add the remaining tablespoon olive oil along with the shallots. Arrange the shallots cut sides down. Sear until browned, 2 to 4 minutes. Flip the shallots, season with a pinch of salt, and sear until browned, another 2 to 4 minutes. Turn off the heat, add 1 cup chicken broth; 2 tablespoons Sherry vinegar; dates; and if you have them, 2 sprigs of thyme, rosemary, or oregano. Scrape the browned bits from the skillet. Nestle the chicken back in, browned sides up (it’s okay if the chicken isn’t fully submerged). Roast until the chicken is cooked through and the shallots are slouchy, 30 to 35 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, make a mash: Peel 2 pounds sweet potatoes and cut into ½-inch pieces. In a medium saucepan over medium-high, melt 1 tablespoon unsalted butter. When foaming, add the sweet potatoes and 1 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, 2 to 4 minutes. Add 1 ½ cups chicken stock or water, reduce heat to medium, cover, and cook, stirring halfway, until tender, 6 to 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and mash with a fork or potato masher (or blend with an immersion blend for a really smooth mash). Add more chicken stock or water as needed until you get the consistency you’re after. Stir in the remaining tablespoon of unsalted butter and season with taste with S&P.
5. Spoon the mash onto plates, then top with the chicken, shallots, dates, and plenty of sauce.
PRINT THE RECIPE
SWAPS
Shallots: 1/2-inch wedges of red or yellow onion, leeks, throw some garlic in there.
Dates: Another dried fried like dried apricots or prunes, or add maybe two teaspoons of brown sugar
Boneless thighs: Timing will shift a little, but you could use bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs, pork tenderloin medallions, or rinsed white beans.
Chicken broth: You could use water but might need more salt
Sherry vinegar: Use red wine vinegar or some white wine.
Sweet potatoes: You can make this quick mash with winter squash or creamer potatoes. Maybe also cauliflower or broccoli?
Butter: Sour cream or buttermilk.
THINGS TO ADD
To the braise: Add a green under the chicken, like escarole or blanched broccoli rabe. Or white beans or chickpeas. You could also add some chopped garlic or a bay leaf.
Briny things: Capers, olives, or anchovies would all be great. Add them with the dates.
Recipe testing: Cybelle Tondu
Brand design: Linda Huang
I’ve now made this at least ten times. Last night my sons helped (7 and 9 years old). In case no one has mentioned this yet, this is just FUN to make. Effort to reward ratio is excellent.
Really enjoyed this recipe, it was so flavorful! I was using a Le Creuset skillet and the cooking times/temps weren't quite right for me- I had to turn the heat a lot lower as well as adjust the cooking time and temperature in the oven (everything burned/overcooked in my first batch). Just thought I'd share if anyone else is cooking with enameled cast iron.