I ask two things of soup. They should warm me up, which many are very good at—so much so they put me to sleep. When a nap can happen, what a sleep it is, but more often I also want the soup to resuscitate me so that I can brave the day, the cold, the clouds.
Today’s ginger-scallion broccoli soup does just that. It’s hefty without being dense, comfy without being snoozy, spicy without being bossy, bright without being puckery, and restorative without being austere.
To achieve that combination of cozy and reviving, a lot of green stuff—three whole heads of broccoli and two whole bunches of scallions—are roasted until both are caramelized and no longer grassy or sharp.
Meanwhile, a pot of water with white beans, broccoli stalks, ginger, and garlic bubbles on the stove. This sands smooth the raw edges of the ginger and garlic and softens the white beans and stalks so much that they’ll thicken the soup when blended.
At this point the combination of ingredients is fairly browned, soft, sweet. The warming half of the soup equation is set, but take a sip. What’s the pick-me-up?
The single greatest thing I know to do to a soup (and stew, chili, and any other long-cooked dish) is to add some form of acid at the very end. You probably already do this instinctively: When you pile on a hefty grating of Parmesan, you’re adding not only creaminess and umami, but also acid.
Whether it’s Parm or lemon juice, vinegar, wine, hot sauce, yogurt, or mustard swirled into the finished soup, acid sharpens and brightens the soup’s flavors. What was dulled by cooking is now in full color. It might not look like it, this ginger-scallion broccoli soup might just do the same for you.
Today, paid subscribers will get this new ginger-scallion broccoli soup, and on Thursday, they’ll also get unlocked links to some of my favorite acid-perked soups. (I couldn’t fit it all in one post!)